Yilan

The county that’s 60 minutes away and feels like a different Taiwan

Yilan County sits on the opposite side of the Central Mountain Range from Taipei, opening onto the Pacific coast. The transformation as the train exits the Hsuehshan Tunnel is immediate: grey urban sprawl gives way to flat green rice plains framed by mountains, with a distinct quality of light that comes from the ocean air on the eastern coast.

Yilan is undervisited relative to its quality. Most Taipei day-trip guides mention Jiaoxi hot springs as a footnote or focus entirely on Jiufen and Shifen. But a day in Yilan — train in the morning, Jiaoxi hot springs in the afternoon, Luodong Night Market in the evening, train back by 10:00 PM — is one of the best paced day trips from Taipei, and the cost is minimal.

Where	Yilan County, east of Taipei across the Central Mountain Range
Cost	Around TWD 131–218 train fare each way; hot springs and food are cheap on top
Time needed	1 full day; overnight if you want to slow the pace or combine with Taroko Gorge
Getting there	TRA express train from Taipei Main Station via the Hsuehshan Tunnel, ~60–80 min
Best time	October to April for the clearest skies; avoid the July–September typhoon window

What to see and do in Yilan County

Jiaoxi Hot Springs (礁溪溫泉)

Jiaoxi is the first train station stop inside Yilan County, and its hot springs are the main reason most visitors get off here. The springs here are sodium bicarbonate type — colourless, odourless, slightly alkaline — different from Beitou’s sulphur springs and from Jinshan’s similar sodium bicarbonate but at a different elevation.

Jiaoxi has multiple public and hotel hot spring options:

Public foot baths (免費泡腳池): Free public foot soaking pools are available near the train station and along the main hot spring street. These are where locals go daily — no towel, no changing room, just sit on the edge and put your feet in. An excellent low-commitment introduction.

Tangweigou Hot Spring Park (湯圍溝溫泉公園): The main public facility near the station. Two outdoor pools (one warm, one hot), changing facilities, and a pleasant park setting. Entry fee is minimal (around TWD 30–50); changing lockers available. This is the most accessible option for day visitors without a hotel room.

Hotel day-use facilities: Most of Jiaoxi’s hotels offer day-use private rooms (TWD 300–800 for 60–90 minutes) with their hot spring water. The hot spring hotels range from functional local guesthouses to resort properties (TWD 2,500–6,000 per night). For a day trip, the public facilities are more than sufficient.

Jiaoxi is about 5 minutes’ walk from Jiaoxi Station. The hot spring street runs perpendicular to the main road.

Luodong Night Market (羅東夜市)

Luodong’s night market is frequently cited as one of Taiwan’s top five night markets and receives considerable less tourist attention than Shilin in Taipei. This is to your advantage: the market is genuine, busy with local visitors from the county, and offers food that you won’t find in Taipei.

Must-try at Luodong:

• Yang Zi Deep Fried Rice Cakes (羊仔米糕): The most famous Luodong dish — pork and rice steamed in bamboo tubes, served warm. TWD 50–80.
• Sticky rice steamed in bamboo (台灣竹筒飯): Similar concept, different texture. A regional specialty.
• Braised duck blood soup (鴨血湯): A Yilan specialty; richer and more complex than the Taipei version.
• Fried crab rice cakes (螃蟹米糕): Seasonal when crab is available.
• Peanut milkfish porridge (虱目魚粥): Light congee with fresh milkfish from the east coast.

The market is in Luodong — one stop further south from Jiaoxi on the TRA line. Alternatively, the bus service between Jiaoxi and Luodong runs regularly (TWD 25). Allow 1.5–2 hours for the market.

Yilan Old Street (宜蘭舊城)

Yilan City (the county seat, two stops south of Jiaoxi) has a preserved old street near the Yilan River. The area around Zhongshan Road and the old administrative buildings dates to the Qing and Japanese colonial periods. Several heritage buildings have been converted to cafés and craft shops.

The Yilan Distillery (宜蘭酒廠) nearby is open for tours and selling its local products — the famous Yilan Rice Wine and various liqueurs. Tours are brief and the tasting is the draw; TWD 100–150 for the guided visit.

Mei Dam River Park (梅花湖): A scenic cycling area south of Yilan City around a reservoir. Rental bikes available. Good for a half-morning of gentle riding through rice fields and farmland.

Wujie Township and the Kavalan Whisky Distillery

Yilan County is home to Kavalan (噶瑪蘭), Taiwan’s internationally recognised single malt whisky producer, in the town of Yuanshan. The distillery offers tours (book in advance; approximately TWD 200 for the tasting tour) and the visitor centre has become a genuine cultural attraction beyond just whisky enthusiasts. Kavalan whiskies have won international awards, and the tour explains the tropical climate maturation process that differentiates Taiwanese from Scottish whisky.

Getting to Kavalan: taxi from Yilan Station (TWD 250–350); the distillery is about 10 km north of Yilan City.

Caoling Historic Trail (草嶺古道)

At the northern edge of Yilan County, the Caoling Historic Trail is a historic mountain path connecting the Yilan side to the northeast coastal area around Fulong. The trail follows an old salt transport route and is 10 km one way, taking 3–4 hours. The ridge viewpoints offer panoramic views over both the Yilan plain and the Pacific coast.

This trail connects to the northeast coast near Fulong Beach and is a hiking option for those who want to physically cross the Central Mountain Range on foot rather than by train.

Getting to Yilan from Taipei

By TRA express train: Puyuma Express, Taroko Express, and Tze-Chiang Limited Express trains run from Taipei Main Station through the 12.9 km Hsuehshan Tunnel to Yilan, Jiaoxi, Luodong, and stations further south. Journey time Taipei to Jiaoxi: approximately 50–60 minutes. Fare: TWD 131–218 depending on train class. Book in advance on weekends and holidays — these trains fill up.

By bus: Buses from Taipei Bus Station via the Beiyiyi Expressway (Freeway 5). Journey time varies by traffic — typically 60–90 minutes. Less reliable than the train for timing and not recommended if schedule matters.

From the northeast coast: If already visiting Keelung or the northeast coast, a coastal road bus connects through to Yilan, passing through Fulong and Toucheng. Scenic but slow (2–2.5 hours). Good for combining a north coast and Yilan day if you have 10+ hours.

A practical Yilan day-trip plan

9:00 AM — Train from Taipei: Take the early Puyuma or Taroko Express to Jiaoxi (arrives ~10:00 AM).

10:00–12:00 — Jiaoxi hot springs: Visit Tangweigou Park or a hotel day-use facility. Relax.

12:00–14:00 — Lunch and explore Jiaoxi: Local restaurants near the hot spring street serve Yilan specialties. Try braised duck or rice in clay pots.

14:00–15:00 — Travel to Luodong: Bus or one-stop train from Jiaoxi to Luodong.

15:00–17:00 — Luodong afternoon: Explore before the night market opens. The Luodong Forestry Culture Garden (羅東林業文化園區) is a former logging yard converted into a parkland with forest walkways and heritage sawmill equipment. Free entry.

18:30–21:00 — Luodong Night Market: Eat well.

21:30 — Train back to Taipei: Arrive Taipei ~22:30–23:00.

Taipingshan National Forest private day tour from Taipei

Combining Yilan with other destinations

Yilan + Taroko Gorge (2-day east coast trip): Train from Taipei to Yilan for the first day (hot springs, night market), stay overnight in Jiaoxi, then train south to Hualien the next morning for Taroko Gorge. Return from Hualien to Taipei via express train. Excellent two-day east coast circuit.

Yilan + Northeast Coast: Rent a scooter or bicycle in Toucheng (one stop before Jiaoxi) and ride the northeast coast highway (Highway 2) north toward Fulong and Bitou Cape. The coastal scenery is among the best in northern Taiwan.

For extended planning, see the best day trips from Taipei guide and beitou vs wulai vs jiaoxi comparison.

Full-day northern Taiwan private chartered car (can be adapted for Yilan)Check availability→

Turning Yilan into an overnight trip

Yilan rewards slowing down more than most Taipei day trips. If you have a second day free, staying overnight in Jiaoxi turns a rushed loop into a proper break from the city.

Why stay overnight: Jiaoxi’s hot spring hotels pipe the sodium bicarbonate water directly into private soaking tubs and rooms, which is a different experience from the public day-use facilities. Evening and early-morning soaks — after the day-trip crowds from Taipei have gone home — are noticeably quieter. Rooms range from simple business hotels (TWD 2,000–3,000) to resort-style properties with multiple pools (TWD 5,000–8,000+). If you’re new to Taiwanese hot spring etiquette, the hot spring etiquette guide covers what to expect before you book — some facilities are swimsuit-required, others are traditional nude bathing, and it varies by hotel.

A two-day version: Day one — train in, Jiaoxi hot springs in the afternoon, hotel check-in, dinner in Jiaoxi. Day two — morning soak, then either Luodong Night Market the previous night plus a relaxed morning market, or push on to Taroko Gorge by train south for a two-day east coast combination. This is a genuinely good route for visitors who find the standard Taipei day-trip pace exhausting.

Booking hotels: Weekend and holiday rooms fill up, especially around Lunar New Year and typhoon-free autumn weekends when domestic tourists flood in from Taipei. Book at least a week ahead for weekends; weekday rooms are usually available with a few days’ notice.

Yilan by season

Season	Weather	What it’s good for
Oct–Dec (autumn)	Cooling, drier spells between rain	Clearest skies of the year; best hiking and photography on Caoling Trail
Jan–Mar (winter)	Cool, frequently overcast and drizzling	Hot springs are at their best — cold air outside, hot water in
Apr–Jun (spring)	Warming, increasing humidity	Rice fields at their greenest; Yilan International Children’s Folklore Festival (Jul, spills into Jun prep)
Jul–Sep (summer/typhoon)	Hot, humid, typhoon risk	Avoid if possible — trains and buses can be cancelled with little notice; check the typhoon season guide before booking

Practical notes

Book train tickets in advance. The TRA Puyuma and Taroko Express trains to/from Yilan fill up quickly, especially on weekends and holidays. Book online at the TRA website or via the Taiwan Railways app. Foreign credit cards work on the website. Day-of tickets are sometimes available but not reliable.

Yilan is rainy. The county sits on the Pacific-facing side of the mountains and receives substantially more rainfall than Taipei. Even on good Taipei weather days, Yilan can be overcast or drizzling. Pack accordingly.

Luodong Night Market hours. The market opens around 6:00 PM and is busy until 11:00 PM. On weekday evenings it’s quieter and more comfortable for eating. The hot spring foot baths near Jiaoxi Station stay open until 10:00 PM.

No need for a car. The train covers the main attractions (Jiaoxi, Luodong, Yilan City). Within each area, walking or cycling is sufficient. A car or scooter adds flexibility for rural rice field areas and the coast.

Frequently asked questions about Yilan

Is Yilan worth a day trip from Taipei?

Yes — it’s one of the most value-for-time day trips from Taipei. The train is 60 minutes, the hot springs are accessible and uncrowded (compared to Beitou), and the Luodong Night Market is excellent. If you’ve already done Jiufen and Beitou, Yilan is the logical next day-trip choice.

Are Jiaoxi hot springs better than Beitou?

Different rather than better. Beitou has historic public bathhouses with sulphur water and more infrastructure. Jiaoxi has colourless sodium bicarbonate springs that are gentler-smelling and more relaxed in atmosphere. Beitou is closer to Taipei (20 minutes); Jiaoxi takes 60 minutes. If you want convenience, Beitou. If you want a full-day excuse for a trip, Jiaoxi.

What is Yilan most famous for?

Three things: Jiaoxi hot springs, Luodong Night Market (top-tier for food), and the green rice field scenery of the Yilan plain. The Kavalan Whisky Distillery is a significant draw for whisky enthusiasts. Yilan is less famous than it deserves to be among international visitors.

Can I combine Yilan and Jiufen in one day?

Technically possible but geographically awkward. Jiufen is on the northeast coast northwest of Yilan; connecting between them requires a significant detour. A better approach is separate days for each.

What is the food specialty of Yilan?

Braised duck (in various forms), rice steamed in bamboo tubes (zhutong fan), milkfish preparations, and thick scallion crackers (蔥油餅). The scallion cracker is probably the most famous Yilan street food — available throughout the county and at many Taipei markets as the “Yilan specialty.”

Is it better to do Yilan as a day trip or overnight?

Both work. A day trip covers the highlights (hot springs, night market) comfortably if you take an early train. Staying overnight is worth it mainly for the hot spring experience itself — private hotel soaking tubs after the day-trip crowds have left, and a slower morning before heading back or continuing to Taroko Gorge.

Do I need to book Jiaoxi hot springs in advance?

Not for the public facilities like Tangweigou Hot Spring Park — walk-in is normal. Hotel day-use rooms and overnight hot spring hotels are worth booking ahead for weekends, since the popular ones fill up.